Domaine Leroy Romanee Saint Vivant Grand Cru 1998 0,75L

Domaine Leroy Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 1998

The Estate

Domaine Leroy represents the apex of Burgundian winemaking, founded by the legendary Lalou Bize-Leroy, whose name alone commands reverence among collectors and connoisseurs worldwide. With vineyard holdings among the most precious in Burgundy—exclusively Grand Cru and Premier Cru parcels—the domaine has cultivated a reputation for producing wines of unparalleled depth, precision, and longevity.

The estate’s philosophy centers on biodynamic viticulture practiced with almost spiritual devotion: minuscule yields (often below 20 hl/ha), old vines, and meticulous parcel selection ensure that only the most concentrated, expressive fruit enters the cellar. Minimal intervention winemaking and extended aging in French oak allow each terroir to speak with crystalline clarity. Domaine Leroy wines are not merely beverages—they are living expressions of Burgundy’s greatest climats, bottled poetry that evolves majestically over decades.

Romanée-Saint-Vivant: Grace and Power United

Romanée-Saint-Vivant stands among Burgundy’s most prestigious Grand Cru vineyards, occupying a privileged position directly adjacent to the legendary Romanée-Conti. This 9.44-hectare climat stretches along the mid-slope of Vosne-Romanée’s celebrated hillside, where limestone-rich soils and ideal eastern exposure create the perfect environment for Pinot Noir of exceptional finesse and aromatic complexity.

What distinguishes Romanée-Saint-Vivant from its illustrious neighbors is its unique expression of elegance—wines of profound depth wrapped in silk rather than velvet, combining power with an almost feminine grace. The terroir’s relatively deeper soils (compared to La Romanée) produce wines that balance immediate charm with remarkable aging potential, revealing layer upon layer of complexity as they evolve.

Domaine Leroy’s parcels within this Grand Cru benefit from old vines and biodynamic farming that has restored the soil’s vitality and microbial diversity. Hand-harvesting at optimal phenolic maturity and rigorous selection ensure that only the finest fruit—capable of expressing this terroir’s noble character—makes it to bottle. The result is Romanée-Saint-Vivant that captures both the site’s legendary elegance and Leroy’s signature intensity.

The 1998 Vintage

The 1998 vintage in Burgundy arrived as a pleasant surprise following the challenging 1997 harvest. A warm, dry summer allowed Pinot Noir to achieve excellent phenolic ripeness while maintaining the vibrant acidity essential for long-term aging. The growing season’s favorable conditions resulted in wines of exceptional balance—ripe fruit character supported by firm structure and precise definition.

For Grand Cru Pinot Noir, 1998 delivered wines of classical proportions: neither excessively powerful nor understated, but perfectly balanced for graceful evolution. Critics praised the vintage for producing wines with both immediate appeal and extraordinary cellaring potential. Now at 25+ years of age, the finest 1998 Burgundies have entered their prime drinking window, revealing the tertiary complexity and silky texture that only time can bestow.

Robert Parker awarded this wine 93 points, noting: ‘Red berries, raspberries, and cherries are found in the nose… Medium-to-full-bodied and elegantly-styled, this strawberry jam and fresh raspberry-filled wine is intricate, well-defined, and concentrated.’ This assessment, made early in the wine’s life, hinted at the magnificent evolution that awaited patient collectors.

Tasting Experience

• At a quarter-century of age, the wine opens with breathtaking aromatic complexity: layers of wild strawberry, raspberry coulis, and candied cherry intertwine with forest floor, crushed rose petals, and subtle notes of aged leather and tobacco leaf. The Grand Cru terroir announces itself through delicate mineral nuances—wet stone and iron—while extended bottle age has introduced hints of truffle, sous-bois, and exotic spice.
• The palate reveals the hallmark elegance of Romanée-Saint-Vivant elevated by Domaine Leroy’s characteristic intensity. Silky tannins, now fully integrated, frame flavors of preserved red fruits, kirsch, and wild herbs. The wine’s texture is extraordinarily refined—powerful yet graceful, dense yet weightless—demonstrating the paradoxical qualities that define great Burgundy.
• Mid-palate depth and complexity unfold in waves: savory notes of cured meat and mushroom complement the wine’s core of red fruit, while subtle oak influence (long since integrated) adds whispers of vanilla and sweet spice. The biodynamic viticulture is evident in the wine’s extraordinary energy and vibrancy, defying its age with remarkable freshness.
• The finish extends for remarkable length, leaving impressions of rose petal, iron, cherry pit, and fine minerals. This is Romanée-Saint-Vivant at its most complete expression—mature yet vital, complex yet harmonious, powerful yet refined. The wine has reached its peak drinking window, offering immediate pleasure while suggesting further evolution for those with patience.
• This bottle captures a moment in time: Lalou Bize-Leroy at the height of her powers, working with one of Burgundy’s greatest terroirs, in a vintage that delivered both structure and grace. It is, quite simply, essential drinking for serious Burgundy collectors.

Service & Food Pairing

Serve at 16-18°C in large Burgundy stems to allow the wine’s complex aromatics to fully express themselves. Decant 30-45 minutes before service to awaken the wine and integrate its components—at this age, the wine benefits from controlled aeration. Pour gently to avoid disturbing any natural sediment. Allow the wine to evolve in the glass; it will continue revealing new dimensions over 2-3 hours.

Exceptional pairings:

• Roasted game birds: duck breast with cherry gastrique, roasted pheasant with autumn vegetables
• Wild mushroom preparations: cèpe-crusted beef tenderloin, truffle risotto
• Aged Burgundian cheeses: Époisses, Langres, or mature Comté aged 24+ months
• Slow-braised beef: boeuf bourguignon prepared with the same vintage
• Venison medallions with blackberry reduction and root vegetables

Cellaring & Evolution

At 25+ years from vintage, this wine has entered its optimal drinking window and will continue to offer extraordinary pleasure for another 5-10 years under ideal storage conditions. Domaine Leroy’s Grand Cru Pinot Noirs are renowned for their longevity, often evolving gracefully for 30-40 years when properly cellared.

The 1998 vintage’s excellent structure and Leroy’s characteristic concentration have ensured remarkable preservation. Those opening bottles now will experience the wine at peak maturity—tertiary complexity fully developed while retaining vibrant energy and fresh acidity. Collectors may continue cellaring, though the wine has likely reached its plateau of perfection.

Store horizontally in a dark, vibration-free environment at 12-14°C with 70-75% humidity. Given the wine’s age and value, careful provenance and storage history are essential. Examine bottles for fill level (mid-to-high shoulder is acceptable for this age) and cork condition before purchase.

Collector’s Note: Domaine Leroy Romanée-Saint-Vivant represents one of Burgundy’s holy grails—a wine that combines an legendary producer, iconic terroir, and a vintage now showing its full mature glory. With Lalou Bize-Leroy’s wines commanding ever-higher prices at auction, bottles from the 1990s represent increasingly rare opportunities to experience her genius. This 1998, scored 93 by Robert Parker and now drinking at its peak, offers immediate transcendent pleasure for those fortunate enough to acquire it.