Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut 1997 3L

ROBERT PARKER ” The 1997 R.D. opens with explosive aromatics that meld seamlessly into layers of ripe fruit. The signature slightly oxidative notes are there, but there is also more than enough fruit to provide terrific balance. This is an especially accessible, opulent R.D. that can be drunk young or cellared. The R.D. starts off as the same wine as the Grande Annee but sees an extended period of aging on its lees prior to being disgorged. In 1997 the R.D. is 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. This bottle was disgorged on March 25, 2008. The 1997 is a great introduction to the R.D style, and a bottle that can be enjoyed while the 1995 and 1996 age. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Under the direction of Chef de Caves Mathieu Kauffmann, Bollinger produces one of the most consistent lineups in Champagne.Bollinger is one of the handful of larger firms that manages to put out consistently high quality wines despite its size. This estate based in Ay is probably best known to the public through its long association with the James Bond films, which is quite possibly one of the most successful product placement campaigns of all time. Despite the show biz glamor that has inextricably become part of the Bollinger mystique, at their best these are serious wines with significant aging potential. The low-dosage R.D. (recently-disgorged) series can be tremendous, and the Vielles Vignes Francaises, made from pre-phylloxera Pinot Noir vines, is one of Champagne’s most exotic bottlings. The estate favors neutral oak barrels for the aging of its top wines. One of the most unique aspects of this estate is that the reserve wines are aged in magnum, rather than in tank, which is the prevailing custom in the region. Bollinger’s back labels are quite informative, but it would be nice to see disgorgement dates as well on the non-vintage wines. “